Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Top Ramen in New York
1. Ramen Setagaya Ramen Setagaya is the closest anyone has come to realizing an authentic Tokyo gyoukai-style ramen and tsukemen shop outside of Japan. Sure, it's not exactly the same as their namesake restaurants in the motherland, but you'd be hard pressed to find a deeper, more subtle soup flavor and the same cutting edge innovation (i.e. grilling the chashu over mokutan wood coal) anywhere else in town, or country, for that matter. | |
2. Ippudo NY Ippudo has long held court as one of Japan's top Hakata ramen chains. It's excellent stuff, and although the New York branch of the restaurant resembles a night club as much as it does a ramen shop, Ippudo NY's slightly modified but still superior akamaru tonkotsu ramen makes for the second-best bowl of noodles in North America. They would rank first, but their noodles (homemade in the restaurant's basement!) were just a touch too floury on my rather inebriated visit. Perhaps I should give them another chance. You think??? | |
3. Minca Ramen Factory Shigeo Kamada's boutique torigara and tonkotsu ramen shop is the East Village's hidden gem, an homage to ramen from the hinterlands of Western Japan. There is nothing else like it in the States, save for a second shop which recently opened. It's also in New York City. Spread the love around a bit, will ya?! | |
4. Rockmeisha Rockmeisha is a West Village izakaya with a Fukuoka bent and a smooth, creamy bowl of Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen that ranks somewhere above Shin-Sen Gumi in Los Angeles, and a notch or two below Ippudo. This is the level New York is playing at; serious slurping for serious cosmopolitan palates. As with most things, the rest of the nation can simply look on in envy. | |
5. Rai Rai Ken Rai Rai Ken is an old school, shinasoba-style ramen shop with Chinese flair. I bailed on dessert at Chikalicious across the street so I could suck down a bowl of shoyu ramen here. And this was after my friends and I had already had dinner! With a saturated, dark shoyu flavor, this mid-tier ramen shop is a shade better than the mediocre assari-kei plaguing many an American Japantown. | |
6. Sapporo Restaurant Nestled in the shadow of Times Square, Sapporo Restaurant conjures all sorts of memories for having served my first ever bowl of New York City ramen years ago. Surprisingly, their miso ramen is full of flavor and umami punch. Actually that wouldn't be surprising at all, if only American ramen shops would hold themselves to a consistently higher standard. | |
7. Momofuku Noodle Bar Overhyped, overpriced and blessed by Iron Chef Morimoto in what has got to be the most flagrant abuse of ranking since the BCS screwed up college football, Momofuku is a gentrified abomination of a ramen shop with food peddled to New York diners who really ought to know better. Oh, they have excellent pork buns. As with Chabuya however, the ramen is worth neither the price nor the popularity. | |
8. Menkui-tei Menkui-tei is a throwback to the assari-kei ramen shops of a bygone era (meaning, the nineties), when ramen was bland, boring, and came in three kinds of soup - shoyu, miso, and shio. Throw in a cursory attempt at tonkotsu and some average, by-the-bag frozen gyoza and you've got a menu straight out of 1992, before "good" ramen ever hit these shores. | |
9. Taisho A pair of Hakata-style robatayaki in the East Village, Taisho and Oh! Taisho serve up obligatory bowls of Hakata tonkotsu ramen that aren't all bad. The soup has decent flavor, but the thin noodles are stiff and straight out of the package. This New York analogue to Los Angeles' legendary Shin-Sen-Gumi won't be rocking anyone's boat anytime soon. Go for the skewers. Pass on the noodles, unless you're still hungry at the end of the meal. | |
10. Menchanko-Tei This midtown "chanko-ramen" specialist dishes out a hybrid nabe of noodles that is decent enough, but closer in spirit to udon or sumo-style hot pot. Avoid the Hakata ramen however; no restaurant, especially one from Fukuoka, should even bother serving tonkotsu ramen quite so mediocre |
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Queens List I
Name | Location | Cuisine |
Sriprahai | Woodside | Thai |
Acasa | Sunnyside | Romanian |
Turkish Grill | Sunnyside | Turkish |
Taverna Kyclades | | Greek |
Eastern Nights | | Middle Eastern (inlc. Hookah) |
Taqueria Coatzingo | | Mexican |
Jackson Diner | | Indian (buffet) |
Gala Manor | | Dim Sum |
Spicy and Tasty | | |
Cheburechnaya | | Uzbeki |
Brooklyn List I
Name | Location | Cuisine |
Folukie Restaurant | Bed-Stuy | |
Café Steinhof | Park Slope | Austrian |
The General Greene | | Soul/Comfort |
Silent H | | Vietnamese |
Fountain Café | Cobble Hill | Middle Eastern |
Primorski | | Georgian |
Manhattan List I
Name | Location | Cuisine |
Frankies Spuntino | LES | Italian |
Supper | East Village | Italian |
Jimmy's No 43 | East Village | Slow Food |
Kuma Inn | LES | Asian Tapas |
Westville | West Village | American |
Café Katja | LES | Austrian |
Queen of Sheba | Theater District | Ethiopian |
Little Poland | East Village | Polish |
Fishers of Men | Harlem | Soul/Comfort |
Rai Rai Ken | East Village | Ramen |